Altair Cruising Log

We’ve had a blast exploring Cartagena. Centro, the old city is still surrounded by the original fortified wall with great churches and old buildings inside. In recent years much of the old town has been rebuilt, recreating a delightful old world charm. The city has also made good use of the old fortifications with restaurants along the top of the old wall. Café del Mar is our favorite, where you can sit next to canons while looking out to sea and up at the stars. Outside the wall in the Boca Grande neighborhood the high rise buildings rivals Miami on a busy beachfront. The Spanish referred to Cartagena as Cartagena de Indias to differentiate it from the Cartagena in Spain and the name is still used today.

We love the hustle and bustle of the big Latin city. Numerous handcarts with their frequently wobbly wheels traverse the streets selling their wares both in Centro and our quiet neighborhood. Everyone wants your business from street vendors to taxi cabs, but it feels very safe and friendly. You still see donkey carts and fishermen selling fish along the waterfront. There is a good supermarket just two blocks away but we frequently buy fruit from some of the many the handcarts plying their trade. We enjoy hearing the sing-song chants of the fruit vendors offering up what they have to sell – Naranjas, mangoes, papaya. A persistent little old man has captured our daily pamplemouse (Tahitian Grapefruit) habit and Carmen with the big bowl on her head sells us papaya. We like to give purchase from small businesses when we can.

Our first impression when we took the dingy into Club Nautico was that the dingy needed a tetanus shot The water was a mess of trash, scum, plants and small logs, but when we stepped up into the club we were thoroughly impressed. There is dock space for about 40 boats and another 60 are anchored out front. Club Nautico has a nice restaurant and does a good job catering to the cruisers helping them find anything needed from boat parts to doctors and dentists. The Club charges 40,000 pesos per week (US$18) for access to the dinghy dock, use of showers on shore and unlimited water. They conveniently run a weekly tab for each boat so you can charge your laundry, beers, fresh juices, meals, etc and don’t have to worry about having money in your pocket. The other marina is Club de Pesca just a few blocks away, the more upscale local yacht club; boats wanting easier shore access or to be plugged into power chose between the two. Club de Pesca is the more modern marina with pilings to tie to, while Club Nautico is more hodge-podge, you need to set two anchors and back up to the dock so boats seem tied in place in a spider web of lines. Both clubs are located in the upper-middle class neighborhood of Manga, a short 20-minute walk to Centro.

The exchange rate of 2,300 pesos to US$1 took a bit of getting used to. We were initially a bit shocked by the amounts things cost, but have now adjusted and think nothing of spending 6,000 pesos (US$2.60) for a simple lunch for two from street vendors or 100,000 pesos (US$44) for four bags of groceries.

Whenever we can get away for a few hours we walk into the old city and explore the museums, old buildings, shops and food venders. The people have done a wonderful job restoring the many narrow streets and over hanging balconies in the old city. We learned that each year there is a competition for the “best balcony” and the winner does not have to pay property taxes that year. What a simple idea for beautification. In the evenings the public squares are set up with outdoor tables for dining under the stars.

We enjoyed sampling the local food from upscale restaurants to quick snacks purchased from one of the many handcarts. One day we had lunch at a counter where after giving your order, they kept track of your bill by writing the amount in chalk on the marble counter top. Once paid, it was simply wiped off. We had ordered empanadas but others who chose chicken were brought a large bowl of fried chicken from which to make their personal choice with tongs. Other days we selected our meal from pushcarts carrying various pots of prepared food including soup, rice, and meats. It was a flat rate of 2,500 pesos for rice, choice of meat, lentils and salad. We enjoyed this meal in a wonderful plaza shaded by large trees with gurgling fountains for background music. Other sidewalk cafes grilled their meat out in front enticing you in with the aroma as you walked down the street.

If you are hungry or thirsty while walking the city streets there are always opportunities to satisfy your carvings. Everywhere there are pushcarts with ice creams or a variety of deep fried treats such as empanadas. Other vendors carry Styrofoam coolers with cerveza, gasseso or auga fria (cold beer, sodas, or water) and all calling out what they have to offer. Still others sell refreshing coco frio (cold young drinking coconuts). Young men carry thermoses of strong sweet coffee, only 200 pesos for a small plastic cup -- just nine cents! These same young men also have a box on their other arm with candies and cigarettes, either individual or in packs. We buy 300 ml bags of water, sealed and complete with labels, for only 200 pesos and wonder how anyone makes any money from the producer to the vendor.

The streets are filled with small yellow taxis, multicolored buses of all shapes and sizes and lots of motorcycles. Many of the motorcycles are taxis; they wear reflector vests and carry an extra helmet for their passengers. Other motorcycles serve as delivery vehicles for anything from meat to prescriptions. Bus rides are an adventure and anything can be expected. People board the bus at no charge to sell snacks, beggars asking for money to support blind daughters, and even street performers doing their routines. At one bus stop, an enterprising person sprayed the front interior panel of the bus with air freshener and was paid by the driver.

We arrived just in time for the Festival to celebrate the independence of Cartagena from Spain on 11 November 1811. The Miss Colombia beauty pageant is a big part of the festivities and after two weeks of parades and parties the new Miss Colombia was crowned and will go on to the Miss Universe pageant. This is taken seriously and the contestants from each district are referred to as “Les Reinas” (The Queens). On our first day we saw the Queens in a bus with a Police escort to stop traffic. There was much pageantry and at least two different parades. We were warned to expect paint and confetti in the playful atmosphere of the Festival. Troupes of young men covered themselves with grease and carried wooden swords to harangue the public out of a few coins or they would hug you and leave their mark. If not grease and oil, then red or blue paint, water, flour or shaving cream decorated many people. We gave away a hand full of 200 peso coins that day but still came home with red, blue and black badges of courage. It was great fun and added up to only a few dollars and the stains come out in the wash.

On passage from Curacao we started to read Michener’s Caribbean, which tells the history of the Caribbean focusing on Cartagena in numerous chapters. It’s been fun to read this fictional account of Infamous Caribbean Heroes interwoven with historical facts and learn more about the importance of Cartagena in the New World. You can imagine sailing into the bay, guided by the lights of the city while reading about Sir Francis Drake. Drake and his ships sailed the same waters and captured the city hundreds of years earlier. It’s interesting to see the sites of the battles with the knowledge fresh in mind. It has also been more interesting knowing some of the history when exploring the museums and old fortifications.

Although Cartagena is a beautiful city there is still much poverty, which could easily break your heart. Colombians are enterprising people and come up with many things to sell from typewriter services on small street side tables to vendors selling everything and anything. But if there is one thing that we find difficult with this lovely city it is the aggressive style of the vendors on the street. As you are turning away from one saying “no gracias”, you find yourself face to face with the next. Some times you just want to wear a t-shirt that says NO! NADA! NO! But we doubt that would make any difference. Paul says, “If I hear ‘where ju from?’ one more time I’ll scream”. And Emeralds… “Come and see my friend’s Emeralds.” We have no desire to buy these beautiful stones but “Gee, they are so cheep, what’s another $100?” As pretty girls behind counters extol “you should get good quality”, “look how green these are”, what’s another $1,000. Egads!

Other cruisers have told us that last year Cartagena was visited almost daily by cruise ships full of Americans eager to spend their money on emeralds and souvenirs. Since the US State Department issued a travel advisory about travel in Colombia, cruise ship visits have all but stopped with the result that many shops are empty of buyers and desperate for sales. While there may be problems and concerns about travel in many interior parts of Colombia, Cartagena seems as safe as any major city. Their absence has left a huge void in the local economy.

Mid-way through our stay in Cartagena we headed out to the Rosarios, a group of islands 18 miles from Cartagena. We wanted to give the bottom of the boat a break from the dirty water in the harbor where barnacles grow in a heart beat. We actually had a furry growth on the top 20 feet of our chain! Besides the many weekend homes, the main attraction is an Oceanario that has dolphin shows etc, a bit like SeaWorld but only US$5.30 to get in. The biggest surprise was the Nurse Sharks, there was a dozen, seven feet long and the trainer would get them to come half way out of the water on a floating platform, they would get their treat, then slide back into the water on the trainer’s command. There is also a private aviary with lots of beautiful and interesting birds from all over the world. The owner generously opens his gates to anyone who stops by to see his collection. Several boats came by to offer us lobsters and local crab; some were already prepared and dished up. We figure this was mainly for passengers on the day trip boats. We bought some with smallish lobsters making a nice lunch and the crabs a good dinner but lots more work than Dungeness Crab as they have incredibly thick claws that were difficult to crack. We finally resorted to large pliers!

Many of the other cruising boats that are here are on a different program than Altair. Most are enjoying years of exploring the many islands of the Caribbean and plan to be in Cartagena for several months. Many have been acquainted for years and enjoy the shore side amenities where they find them. There is a regular morning net and organized social events as well as daily Spanish classes. The weekly pot luck is a chance to trade recipes and there might be a swap meet or wine tasting and of course a turkey dinner for Thanksgiving. All this has been great fun but Altair is ready to get back to the islands. Even though things are relatively inexpensive here, it all adds up.

We are planning to sail to the San Blas Islands off the Caribbean coast of Panama in a few days. The San Blas are home to the Kuna Indians who are world famous for their molas (intricate designs created with fabric appliqué). The more than three hundred islands that make up this archipelago are a short 36-hour sail from Cartagena. We are looking forward to spending December and January among these classic tropical islands that are the stuff of travel magazine covers. The San Blas are a bit remote and we have heard there are no Internet cafes therefore we may not be able to respond to emails right away but look forward to getting messages at our next opportunity.

We wish everyone a joyous and festive holiday season and Peace to all, wherever you may be in the world.

Suzette and Paul
Yacht Altair
Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
Saturday 3 December 2005