Thu, 14 Nov 2002
That America's Cup fever has reached a new level here in the Hauraki Gulf was evident the moment we passed between the Wangaparoa Peninsula and Ragitoto Island. Auckland really is the city of sails and it seems that nearly everyone here is an avid yachtsman, afficionado or participant in some fashion. As we sailed south, bleary eyed from completing our slow 10 day passage from Noumea in New Caledonia, we saw countless examples of high level sailing: We saw the appearance of over 100 spinnakers appear on the horizon as Etchells rounded the weather mark at the Etchell's World's. The two Stars and Stripes race boats hoisted and jibed asymmetrical chutes and tacked repeatedly, showing a fine example of perfect sail trim, and passed within 100 yards of us numerous times as though we were a fixed mark, while they raced one another. We watched in awe as a foredeck monkey from GBR clambered up the 90 foot mast in a matter of seconds to lock their mainsail into position. We had some incredible photo opportunities as these and others set out for another practice day following the completion of the second round robin races. When we pulled into Bayswater Marina, we saw a multitude of new megayachts from all over the world.
At the beginning of the quarterfinals, we set out early on the ferry for the viaduct, located across the water from Bayswater Marina where we are currently moored. We saw several megayachts and spectator boats exit the harbor, including Paul Allen's Tatoosh and Larry Ellison's Katana (sarcastically referred to as "habitrails", since the windows strongly resemble the exercise tubes designed for gerbils.) We visited the Telecom shed, where America's Cup history and technology is displayed and described. The communications aspect is of particular interest to Telecom, the sponsor and the New Zealand telecommunications giant, but very interesting in how it has affected our appreciation of the cup action as coverage evolved from pigeon post to wireless to immediate Internet updates several times per second.
We were sorry to see the One World Challenge team lose to Oracle in the first two close races of the Quarterfinals. Very exciting, close racing that reminds us of our one design racing days. One World is pretty evenly matched with Oracle, but it hasn't gone their way these last 2 races. We watched the good coverage provided by TV NZ on a big screen from bleachers outside at the Viaduct on nice sunny, warm days. Following the first race, we wandered down to the One World base, where a cocktail party was scheduled for a group here from Seattle Yacht Club, where we saw quite a few Seattle folks we know. Eventually the hardworking but disappointed sailors came in from the race course. The race boats were towed in, hauled out, unloaded and hosed down with cachement water collected on the roof of the compound. While we socialized with each other and the racers, enjoying cocktails and teasers, we watched the team hoist the rig for a night overhaul. The hard work we witnessed was obviously the tip of the iceberg. Following the second quarterfinal race, we wandered along the road where the team bases are located to shop for souvenirs, stopping in to see paintings by Dennis Conner (what a surprise!) and his collection of famous America's Cup half models. We also stopped to see the interactive display at the Alinghi Base and watch them wash down their boats after their second win over Prada. All along Halsey street we saw sailors wearing team uniforms heading home after a hard day's work. At the One World base, we again socialized with Seattle folks we know as well as racers who just completed the Etchells World Championships.
It has been so fun to be here while the Cup is happening because New Zealand is so excited about the event. But the event is even more special since we have a team representing our home town and even people we know on the team! Auckland's small town atmosphere makes it incredibly easy to feel in the middle of the action by just being around. We saw Russell Coutts at the grocery store a couple of days ago. Fellow cruisers and racers we haven't seen for a long time, as well as the rich and famous are convening here, making it feel like the center of the universe.
People we know and have just met have extended generous invitations and we keep pinching ourselves to make sure we aren't dreaming! We'll get the opportunity to go out on the press boat to watch and also to watch from the media center, where we have a friend working for a Japanese magazine that featured us in their November issue. While many of our friends who sailed on to Australia told us we were crazy to return to the rain and gales of New Zealand, we can't imagine wanting to be anywhere else right now. We'll cross our fingers that the home team demonstrates their great sailing skill, outshining the other contenders as well as the defender to take the cup home to Seattle.
Cheers,
Wendy Hinman and Garth Wilcox
S/V Velella (Wylie 31)